Ifeel certain that in one of my mom's past lives she was Chinese and had her own restaurant. You could not tell this by looking at her of course, but her passion for cooking is proof enough for me. This is further endorsed by the magnitude of dumplings in our house. Whenever I come home the refrigerator is loaded with mom's homemade dumplings or their Slavonic cousins, known as vareniks. When 1 visited Beijing for the first time in October 1999 I was astonished to hear that dumplings originated not in Siberia as most Russians, Belarusians and Ukrainians believe, but in China! Jiaozi (the local name for dumplings) were popular in the Middle Kingdom as long as 1,700 years ago.