Safe Retinol-Like Skin Biological Effect by a New Complex, Enriched with Retinol Precursors

• 作者: Dror Cohen Meital Portugal-Cohen Ya’ara La’or-Costa Ze’evi Ma’or
• 来源期刊: 化妆品、皮肤病及应用期刊(英文)
• 学科: 医学
• 关键词: RETINOL Hyaluronic Acid Β-CAROTENE SKIN Inflammaging IRRITATION
• 年，卷（期）: 2020,（2）
• 页码范围: 59-75
• 页数: 17页
• 分类号: R73

摘要

<strong>Background:</strong> Retinol (RE) is deeply involved in skin processes, therefore it is widely formulated in cosmetics, primarily as an anti-aging ingredient. Despite <span>its efficacy, the safety profile of RE is controversial. <b>Objectives:</b> Pretinol (PRE) complex was formulated with two RE precursors, <i>β</i>-Carotene and Niacinamide,</span><span> </span>in order to deliver retinol-like skin benefits with healthier characteristics, as<span>suming that skin enzymes will enable safe RE supply on spot. <b>Methods:</b> The expres</span><span>sion levels of hyaluronic acid, Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF<i>α</i>) and In</span><span>terleukin 1 alpha (IL-1<i>α</i>), were measured using various skin models before and</span><span> </span><span>after exposure to PRE and RE. Full genome microarray was performed and the</span> <span>affected genes and pathways were analyzed. <b>Results:</b> Following fibroblasts exposure to PRE, the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid is significantly elevated</span><span>.</span><span> </span><span>Skin safety, demonstrated via cytokines expression on <i>ex-vivo</i> skin, results with TNF<i>α</i> and IL-1<i>α</i> elevation by RE application. In contrary PRE significantly reduces</span> TNF<i>α</i> while IL-1<i>α</i> is not affected. These results establish skin safety advantage of PRE <i>vs</i> RE. Microarray results examined on skin equivalents reveal <span>the involvement of PRE in inflammatory attenuation. <b>Conclusions:</b> Formulat</span>ing RE precursors as a safe source for RE is partially supported. PRE presents a skin benefit in parallel to RE, while PRE characteristics are suggested to be safer to skin.