URUMQI, capital of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, is a modem metropolis. On billboards around the airportare the smiling faces of international and domestic stars advertising mobile phones and trendy clothes, The road leading downtownis broad and lined with multi-story buildings like any other big city, the only difference being that they are in a distinctively monotone 1970s style. Visual relief, however, comes in the form of a large, exotically Islamic-style building complex known locally as the international bazaar. Its proprietors, Han and indigenous alike, purvey goodsmade in Xinjiang as well as from neighboring India and Pakistan, and occasionally from Europe.