Particle Motion in Surface Gravity Waves

• 作者: Kern E. Kenyon
• 来源期刊: 自然科学期刊(英文)
• 学科: 物理学
• 关键词: Surface Gravity Waves Orbital Particle Motion
• 年，卷（期）: zrkxqkyw,（2）
• 页码范围: 18-20
• 页数: 3页
• 分类号: O35

摘要

Fluid particles in translating surface gravity waves have an orbital motion which decreases in size with increasing mean depth. These wave characteristics came from observations and were not forecast theoretically. The classical potential flow model is incapable of explaining the particle movement due to the irrotational assumption and to a flaw in carrying out the method. When a wave passes by an observer from left to right, the particles move clockwise under a crest and a trough. This correct conclusion is consistent with what the incorrect standard theory implies but should not be considered to have been derived from it.